My Sister's Bag Tutorial

Another feat for me this week:  I designed my very first bag from scratch, and made it!  My sister got her RN license in January, and is now working in the neuro unit.  She wanted a bag she could tote her stuff to work in that had pockets she could put her coffee cup in without it spilling.  Erin to the rescue!  So without further ado, I give you "My Sister's Bag."

You will need:
1 yard of fabric for bag exterior
1 yard of fabric for bag interior/accent
1/2 yard fusible fleece
lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)
thread to match fabric for interior/accent
1/4" elastic (approx. 8")


From your exterior fabric you will need to cut the following :

a.  (1) 32" x 15" (main piece of exterior)
b. (2) 14" x 6" (exterior sides)
c. (4) 9" x 5" (pockets on front and back)
d. (4) 9" x 8" (coffee cup pockets on sides)

From your interior/accent fabric you will need to cut the following:

i. (2) 2" x 15" (trim on exterior)
ii. (2) 2" x 6" (trim on exterior - sides)
iii. (3) width of fabric (WOF) x 4" strips (straps)
iv. (2) 2" x 5" (exterior pocket trim)
v. (2) 17 1/2" x 20" (lining)

From the fusible fleece you will need to cut:

(1) 34" x 15"
(2) 15" x 6"

If you are using the fusible interfacing for your "Coffee Cup Pockets," you will need:

(2) 8" x 9"

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2" UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED

Constructing the EXTERIOR of bag:

Sew trim pieces to exterior pieces of bag (1 i. sewn to each end of a. and 1 ii. to one short side of each b. piece).  Press seams open.

Follow the directions to fuse your exterior trimmed pieces to the fleece.

To make the exterior front back pockets, sew (with RST) 1 c. piece to 1 iv. piece along short side of c.  Press seams open.  Pin and sew 2nd c. piece to trim.  Fold pocket in half, with the trim at the top, right sides together.  Sew along bottom edge only.  Turn pocket right side out and press.  This will allow your pocket to have a finished seam at the top and bottom.  You will hide the unfinished sides under the straps later.  Repeat for other pocket.

Place pockets 4 - 5" down from each short edge of the bag exterior.  Pin in the center of the bag, and using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew 3 sides onto bag, leaving the top of pocket open.

  

To make handle:

Sew short edges of 3 WOF strips together, pressing the seams open.  You will have a GIANT loop of fabric.  Fold in half and press, as though you were making double fold bias tape.  Open and press each edge into center like so:

Fold in half again along original crease, and press.  Using matching thread and a 1/8" seam allowance, top stitch closed along both edges.

Find center of strap and pin to bag, making sure you cover the raw edges of pockets.  You will want to make sure that your strap is going to be even on both sides of the bag.  Starting where the bottom of the bag will be, follow stitch line and sew to bag, stopping and turning at the trim line then continuing back down and around.

To make the side "Coffee Cup" pockets:

If using the fusible interfacing, fuse to 2 of the d. pieces.  Take one interfaced piece, and one NON-interfaced piece and pin RST.  Sew along short side, turn and top stitch 1/2" from seam to create a "tube" for the elastic.   You will now need to "box" your corners to give enough room for a cup to fit in these pockets.  

Measure in 1" from the side and bottom of the pocket on each corner (outer piece, and lining).  Mark this with a line as shown.  You will then fold the lines together, with the RST of the material and sew on the line like so:

Cut excess 1/4" away from the line you sewed.  Repeat on remaining 3 corners, and then again on the second side pocket.  

Cut a 4 - 5" piece of elastic (depends on how stretchy you want it to be) and using a safety pin, run it through the tunnel on the pocket like so:

Using 1/8" seam, tack elastic down at each edge of the pocket.  Pin pocket to side gusset piece and using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch to gusset.  

With right sides together, line up your trim seams on the side gusset and front/back exterior piece.  Use 1/2" seam allowance and sew together.  Repeat on other side, the turn the bag right side out.

To Make Lining:

Pin lining pieces RST, and stitch around 2 short sides 1 long side, leaving a 5 - 6" opening in one side for turning bag.  Next you will box the corners of the lining.  Line up your side and bottom seams, pinching them together.  From the point you have just made, measure in 2 1/2" and mark a line across the corner.  Sew along this line.  Before you trim your seams to 1/4", make sure you are happy with the stitching.  Repeat along other corner.  

Attach lining and bag exterior:

You will need to tuck your handles into the front and back pockets so they stay out of the way.  Place the EXTERIOR of the bag, into the interior of the bag, RST.  Line up the side seams on the lining with the center of the side gussets on the exterior.  Pin and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Turn bag through the opening of the lining, and slip stitch the opening closed.  Push lining into bag and finger press the lining/exterior seam.  Top stitch around the top of the bag with a 1/8" seam allowance, keeping the handles out of the way.

Then take the handles and sew them with a box and "x" pattern to attach them to the top of the bag and give them strength.

Voila!  You now have a fabulous bag fit for any nurse to carry!

Child's tote bag

For this EASY, lined tote bag, you will need 2 coordinating cotton fabrics.  1/2 yard of each will be more than enough.  I haven't gotten great at figuring out exactly how much fabric to get yet, so I always wind up with extra.

From here on out, the bag EXTERIOR will be called Fabric A.  The bag INTERIOR will be called Fabric B.

Seams are 1/4" unless otherwise noted.

You will need:
a. (2) 14" x 14" pieces of Fabric A
b. (1) 6" x 10" piece of Fabric A
c. (1) 5" x 5" piece of Fabric A

d. (2) 14" x 14" pieces of Fabric B
e. (1) 6" x 10" piece of Fabric B
f. (1) 5" x 5" piece of Fabric B

for the handles you will need (2) 4" x 14" pieces of EITHER fabric.  I used Fabric A.

First you will make the pockets -

take b. and e. (the 6" x 10" pieces) and pin them right sides together.  sew around 3 sides, leaving a short side open for turning.  clip the corners, turn right side out and press.  do the same with c. and f. (the 5" x 5" pieces).  If you have directional fabrics, make sure that you are cutting and sewing them the way you would like them to be on your bag.

Then you will attach the pockets to the bag:

take one piece of a. (bag EXTERIOR) and center the larger pocket on it.  pin in place and sew around 3 sides on the bag front with 1/8" seam allowance.

take one piece of d. (bag INTERIOR) and center the smaller pocket on the top 1/3rd of the bag.  pin in place and sew around 3 sides on the bag inner back with 1/8" seam allowance.

Next, construct the interior and exterior of the bag:

line up the 2 a. pieces, right sides together, making SURE the pocket is facing what will be UP, and sew 3 sides together.  I chose to box my corners with a 1" box.  you can forgo this step if you'd like.  to do this though, line up your side and bottom seams, pinching them together.  from the point that you have just made, measure in 1" and mark a line across the corner.  sew along this line.  repeat on the opposite side.  you will want to turn the bag exterior right side out to ensure you are happy with your boxed corners.  turn wrong side out again and clip the corners, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. turn exterior right side out.

repeat for the bag interior, but make sure you leave a large opening on the bottom for turning the bag right side out.

To make the handles:

take one handle, fold it in half wrong sides together along the long edge, press and then folded each edge into the center and press again, and then fold it along the original press line and stitch closed and around end and other side using a 1/8" seam allowance .  repeat with remaining handle.

To complete the bag:

pin your completed handles to the outside (right side) of the bag interior, about 1/3 of the way in from each side.  repeat on the back side of the bag, so you will have one handle pinned to the front and one side pinned to the back.
place the bag EXTERIOR into the bag interior so you have right sides together.  stitch together around top edge of bag.  turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining and sew the opening closed by whatever method you prefer (by hand, machine, etc.)  push lining into bag and then top stitch around top of bag using 1/8" seam allowance.  voila!

this is an adaptation of this crayon tote bag.  I left off the crayon pocket because my nephew doesn't like to color ( :? yeah, I don't get it either) and did the handles differently.